How to Clean Your RC Car: Complete Maintenance Guide

Time Required: 15-30 minutes
Difficulty: Beginner-friendly
Cost: $20-50 for basic supplies

Essential Steps:

1. Remove batteries and body
2. Blow off loose debris with compressed air
3. Brush hard-to-reach areas
4. Apply degreaser sparingly if needed
5. Lubricate moving parts
6. Reassemble and store properly

Regular cleaning keeps your RC car running like new every time you take it out for a drive. Whether you’re new to the hobby or a seasoned basher, proper maintenance prevents costly repairs and extends the life of your vehicle.

RC cars are built tough and designed to get dirty. That’s part of the fun! However, dirt, mud, and debris work their way into bearings, servos, and other moving parts. Without regular cleaning, these contaminants cause premature wear and reduce performance.

Your RC car contains sensitive electronic components, so you can’t simply spray it down with a garden hose. The good news? With the right tools and techniques, cleaning your car takes just 15-30 minutes.

This guide will show you exactly how to clean your RC car properly and keep it performing at its best.

Table of Contents

• Why Regular Cleaning Matters
• Essential Tools You’ll Need
• Step-by-Step Cleaning Process
• How to Clean Wheels and Tires
• Cleaning the Chassis and Suspension
• When and How to Use Degreasers
• Proper Lubrication Techniques
• Cleaning for Different Terrains
• Common Mistakes to Avoid
• Frequently Asked Questions

Why Regular Cleaning Matters

Cleaning your RC car after every driving session prevents several problems:

Prevents Rust and Corrosion: Moisture and dirt trapped in metal components cause rust. Regular cleaning removes these corrosive elements before damage occurs.

Extends Component Life: Dirt acts like sandpaper on moving parts. Clean bearings, gears, and suspension components last significantly longer.

Maintains Performance: Buildup in the drivetrain reduces power transfer and slows your car down. A clean car runs faster and handles better.

Easier Repairs: When everything is clean, you can spot problems early. Broken parts, loose screws, and worn components are easier to identify.

Protects Your Investment: Quality RC cars cost hundreds of dollars. Spending 20 minutes on maintenance protects that investment.

The best time to clean is right after driving. Fresh mud and dirt come off much easier than dried-on grime.

Essential Tools You’ll Need

Most cleaning supplies are inexpensive items you probably already have. Here’s what you need to get started:

Must-Have Tools

• Air compressor or canned air (100-120 PSI recommended)
• Assorted brushes (old paintbrushes in various sizes work great)
• Large toothbrush (for detailed scrubbing)
• Microfiber cloths or shop rags
• All-purpose cleaner (Simple Green, 409, or ammonia-free glass cleaner)
• Lubricant (WD-40, white lithium grease, or specialized RC lubricant)
• Hex drivers and tools (for disassembly)
• Safety goggles

Recommended Additions

• Foaming degreaser (Muc-Off works exceptionally well)
• Small spray bottle (for diluted cleaner)
• Kitchen brush with handle (for stubborn dirt)
• Small bucket (for soapy water)
• Paper towels
• Heavy-duty gloves

Nice-to-Have Items

• Chassis dust cover (prevents dirt buildup in the first place)
• Parts organizer trays (keeps screws organized during disassembly)
• Dedicated cleaning station (keeps workspace organized)

Pro Tip: Keep all your cleaning supplies in a plastic tote. When you get home from driving, everything you need is in one place.

Prevent Dirt Before It Starts

Before we dive into cleaning, consider this time-saver: a chassis dust cover.

This lightweight mesh cover fits over your chassis and keeps mud, grass, leaves, and debris out of hard-to-clean areas. If you hate cleaning your RC car, this simple upgrade makes a huge difference.

The cover doesn’t interfere with performance, and you’ll spend half the time on post-drive maintenance.

Step-by-Step Cleaning Process

Step 1: Safety First

Put on your safety goggles before you begin. Flying debris and cleaning chemicals can irritate or injure your eyes. Heavy-duty gloves protect your hands from harsh cleaners.

Read the warning labels on all cleaning products and follow their safety recommendations.

Step 2: Remove All Batteries

This is the most important step. Never clean your RC car with batteries installed. Water or cleaning solution can cause electrical shorts and permanent damage.

Remove the receiver battery and any other power sources. While the batteries are out, put them on the charger so they’re ready for your next session.

Step 3: Remove the Body

The body is the easiest part to clean. Simply unclip it from the chassis and set it aside.

For most bodies, you can spray them off with a garden hose or wash them in the sink with dish soap. Wipe down with a microfiber cloth and let air dry.

Avoid using harsh chemicals on painted bodies, as they can damage the finish.

Step 4: Remove Wheels and Tires

Taking off the wheels gives you access to suspension components, brake assemblies, and other hard-to-reach areas where dirt accumulates.

This step isn’t always necessary for light cleaning after pavement running, but it’s essential after mud or sand driving.

How to Clean Wheels and Tires

RC tires often have vent holes to prevent ballooning at high speeds. Be careful not to get water inside these vents, as trapped moisture can ruin the foam inserts.

The Damp Brush Method:

Fill a bucket with warm water and a few drops of dish soap. Lightly dip your brush in the soapy water and shake off excess dripping water. Scrub the wheels and tires thoroughly, then wipe clean with a dry rag.

Try to keep water out of the vent holes. If your tires have large vents, cover them with tape before cleaning.

The Degreaser Method:

For heavily soiled wheels, spray them with foaming degreaser. Let it sit for 3-5 minutes, then scrub with a brush. Wipe clean with a rag or rinse with clean water (avoiding the vents).

The degreaser method cuts through baked-on mud and tire dressing more effectively than soap and water.

Set the wheels aside to dry completely before reinstalling them.

Cleaning the Chassis with Compressed Air

Once the body and wheels are removed, start with compressed air. This is the fastest way to remove loose dirt, dust, and debris.

Air Compressor Setup:

Set your compressor to 100-120 PSI. This provides plenty of power without damaging delicate components. Never exceed 150 PSI on RC cars.

If you don’t have an air compressor, canned air (like keyboard duster) works for lighter cleaning jobs.

Blowing Technique:

Start at the front of the chassis and work toward the back. Hold the air nozzle 4-6 inches from the surface. Move systematically to avoid missing spots.

Flip the car on its side, upside down, and at different angles. Dirt hides in unexpected places.

Pay special attention to:

• Gear mesh area (spur and pinion gears)
• Suspension arms and pivot points
• Shock towers and chassis brace areas
• ESC and motor heatsinks
• Servo compartments

Pro Tip: Work outside or in a garage with good ventilation. You’ll be amazed how much dirt comes flying off.

A quality portable air compressor doesn’t need to be expensive. This compact unit delivers plenty of power for RC maintenance:

Brush Away Stubborn Dirt

After blowing off loose debris, use brushes to tackle stuck-on dirt in hard-to-reach areas.

Where to Focus:

• Suspension arms and hinge pins
• Steering linkages and servo saver
• Spur and pinion gear teeth
• Shock bodies and spring seats
• Chassis rails and mounting posts
• Differential case (if exposed)

Use gentle pressure. You’re removing dirt, not scrubbing paint off. A soft brush combined with compressed air works wonders.

Brush Selection:

Old paintbrushes work perfectly for most jobs. Keep several sizes on hand:

• Large brushes (1-2 inches) for chassis surfaces
• Medium brushes for suspension components
• Small detail brushes for tight spaces

Kitchen brushes with handles provide good reach and scrubbing power for larger areas:

Pro Technique: Brush and blow simultaneously. Have someone hold the air nozzle while you brush, or alternate between brushing and blowing sections.

When and How to Use Degreasers

Degreasers are powerful cleaning agents that cut through oil, grease, and stubborn grime. However, they should be used sparingly.

Why Use Sparingly?

Heavy-duty degreasers can degrade plastic components over time. Frequent use may cause parts to become brittle or discolored. One or two applications won’t cause problems, but daily use will accelerate wear.

When to Use Degreasers:

• After driving through thick mud
• When oil or grease covers components
• Before long-term storage
• After beach or salt water exposure (rinse thoroughly)

When to Skip Degreasers:

• Light dust or dirt (compressed air is sufficient)
• After pavement running
• On already-clean components

Application Methods:

Method 1: Spray on Cloth
For light to moderate cleaning, spray degreaser onto a microfiber cloth. Wipe down specific dirty areas. This targeted approach minimizes chemical exposure to plastic parts.

Method 2: Direct Application
For heavily soiled vehicles, spray foaming degreaser directly on the chassis. Let it sit for 3-5 minutes (follow manufacturer instructions). The foam penetrates dirt and lifts it away from surfaces.

After the dwell time, wipe away the degreaser with clean rags or blow it off with compressed air. Follow up by wiping with a damp cloth to remove any residue.

Recommended Product:

Muc-Off Nano Tech cleaner is biodegradable and less harsh than industrial degreasers. It effectively removes dirt without being overly aggressive on plastics.

Cleaning Suspension and Steering Components

Metal suspension parts can handle stronger cleaning methods than plastic components.

Foaming degreaser works well on:

• Shock bodies and springs
• Suspension arms (metal)
• Steering linkages and turnbuckles
• CVD driveshafts
• Hinge pins and pivot balls

Process:

1. Spray degreaser on metal components
2. Let sit for 3-5 minutes
3. Scrub with a brush if needed
4. Wipe clean with a rag or blow off with compressed air
5. Inspect for wear or damage while clean

Avoid Direct Spray On:

• Servos (water-resistant doesn’t mean waterproof)
• ESC and receiver
• Motor bearings
• Differential seals

For these sensitive areas, use a barely damp cloth with mild cleaner.

Proper Lubrication After Cleaning

Cleaning removes dirt but also strips away protective lubricants. Proper lubrication after cleaning is essential.

What Needs Lubrication:

• All hinge pins and pivot points
• Suspension ball joints
• Steering linkage connections
• Exposed bearings
• Gear mesh (light application)
• Shock shafts
• Any bare metal surfaces

Lubricant Options:

WD-40 or Dry Lube: Great for general-purpose lubrication of metal-to-metal contact points. WD-40 also displaces water from metal surfaces.

White Lithium Grease: Excellent for high-load areas like gear mesh and heavy-duty pivot points. Stays in place better than liquid lubricants.

Silicone Spray: Ideal for rubber parts like shock O-rings and bumpers.

Specialized RC Lubricants: Products like Team Associated or Traxxas lubricants are formulated specifically for RC applications.

Application Tips:

Less is more. Over-lubrication attracts dirt. Apply a small amount, work the component through its range of motion, then wipe away excess.

For precise application, WD-40 pens are perfect:

Lubrication Process:

1. Apply lubricant to pivot points
2. Work the suspension up and down
3. Apply a second light coat
4. Wipe away any excess
5. Check that all moving parts operate smoothly

Cleaning for Different Driving Conditions

Different terrains require different cleaning approaches.

After Mud Running

Mud is the toughest challenge for RC car cleaning.

Cleaning Strategy:

• Let thick mud dry slightly before brushing (counterintuitive but true)
• Use foaming degreaser for heavy buildup
• Pay extra attention to drivetrain components
• Check inside shock boots for trapped mud
• Inspect differential vents for blockage

Heavy mud can pack into gear mesh and cause stripping. Clean the spur and pinion gears thoroughly.

After Beach or Sand Driving

Sand is incredibly abrasive and gets everywhere.

Cleaning Strategy:

• Thorough compressed air cleaning is essential
• Check all bearings for sand intrusion (listen for grinding)
• Blow out the motor especially well
• Lubricate heavily after sand exposure
• Consider replacing bearings if they feel gritty

Important: If you drove near salt water, wipe down all metal parts with a damp cloth to remove salt residue. Salt causes rapid corrosion.

After Pavement Running

Street driving creates the least mess but still requires maintenance.

Cleaning Strategy:

• Light compressed air cleaning usually sufficient
• Focus on dust removal from electronics
• Quick lubrication of key pivot points
• Check for small rocks in tire treads
• Inspect for cracks in plastic from impact

After Grass or Dirt Track

Grass and fine dirt create their own challenges.

Cleaning Strategy:

• Remove grass clippings from chassis (they hold moisture)
• Blow out motor vents thoroughly
• Check air filter if equipped
• Clean accumulated dust from ESC and receiver
• Inspect tires for embedded debris

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced hobbyists make these cleaning errors:

Mistake 1: Using Too Much Water
Water and electronics don’t mix. Never spray the chassis with a garden hose. Stick to dry cleaning methods (compressed air and brushes) for everything except the body and wheels.

Mistake 2: Skipping Post-Drive Cleaning
Dried mud is exponentially harder to remove than fresh mud. Spending 15 minutes cleaning after each session saves hours of work later.

Mistake 3: Forgetting to Lubricate
Cleaning strips away protective lubricants. Skipping lubrication leads to squeaking, binding, and premature wear.

Mistake 4: Over-Using Harsh Chemicals
Daily degreaser use degrades plastic components. Use the mildest cleaning method that gets the job done.

Mistake 5: Cleaning with Batteries Installed
This is dangerous and can permanently damage electronics. Always remove all batteries first.

Mistake 6: Ignoring Electronics Protection
Even water-resistant electronics can fail if repeatedly soaked. Keep cleaners away from the receiver box, ESC, and servos.

Mistake 7: Using High-Pressure Air
Excessive air pressure (over 150 PSI) can force dirt into bearings and blow out seals. Stick to 100-120 PSI.

Mistake 8: Not Inspecting While Cleaning
Cleaning time is inspection time. Look for cracked parts, loose screws, worn bearings, and other issues while everything is visible.

Protecting Electronics During Cleaning

Your ESC, receiver, and servos are vulnerable to moisture damage.

Protection Strategies:

Receiver Box Waterproofing: Apply dielectric grease around wire entry points to create a moisture barrier. Consider a waterproof receiver box for serious off-road driving.

ESC Protection: Many ESCs have conformal coating for water resistance, but they’re not waterproof. Keep direct spray away from the ESC. If using wet cleaning methods, cover the ESC with plastic wrap.

Servo Care: Check servo cases for cracks before each cleaning. Water entry through cracks causes failure. Consider waterproof servos for heavy-duty bashing.

Motor Maintenance: Blow out motors thoroughly with compressed air. Avoid direct water spray on motor vents. If you must rinse the motor, spray with WD-40 afterward to displace moisture.

General Rule: If a component has wires coming out of it, keep it as dry as possible.

Creating Your Cleaning Routine

Consistency is key to maintaining your RC car properly.

After Every Run (15 minutes):

• Remove batteries
• Blow off chassis with compressed air
• Quick brush of obvious dirt
• Wipe down body
• Visual inspection for damage

Weekly Deep Clean (30-45 minutes):

• Remove wheels
• Thorough compressed air cleaning
• Detailed brushing of all components
• Targeted degreaser use if needed
• Complete lubrication
• Tighten all screws

Monthly Maintenance (1-2 hours):

• Full disassembly and inspection
• Replace worn bearings
• Check gear mesh and replace if worn
• Inspect shocks for leaks
• Clean and lubricate differentials
• Apply fresh threadlock to set screws

Seasonal Storage Prep:

• Complete deep clean
• Remove all batteries
• Lubricate all metal parts
• Store in a dry location
• Check periodically for rust

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How often should I clean my RC car?
A: Clean your RC car after every driving session. This prevents rust and makes cleaning easier. Fresh dirt comes off in minutes, while dried mud can take an hour to remove.

Q: Can I spray my RC car with a water hose?
A: Only spray the body with water. The chassis contains sensitive electronics that require dry cleaning methods like compressed air and brushes. Water damage to electronics is permanent and expensive.

Q: What PSI should I use for compressed air cleaning?
A: Use 100-120 PSI for safe and effective cleaning. This pressure removes dirt without damaging components or forcing debris into bearings. Never exceed 150 PSI.

Q: Do I need to remove the battery before cleaning?
A: Yes, always remove all batteries before cleaning. Water or cleaning solution can cause electrical shorts and permanent damage to expensive electronics. This is the most important safety step.

Q: What’s the best cleaner for RC cars?
A: For routine cleaning, compressed air and brushes work best. When you need chemical cleaners, Muc-Off Nano Tech or Simple Green work well. Use degreasers sparingly to avoid degrading plastic components.

Q: How do I clean my RC motor?
A: Blow out the motor with compressed air through the cooling vents. Avoid spraying water directly into the motor. If the motor got wet during driving, spray WD-40 into the vents to displace moisture.

Q: Can I use WD-40 on my RC car?
A: Yes, WD-40 works great for lubricating pivot points and displacing water from metal surfaces. Apply sparingly and wipe away excess to avoid attracting dirt.

Q: Should I clean my RC car if I only drove on pavement?
A: Yes, even pavement driving creates dust that accumulates on electronics and in bearings. A quick 5-minute compressed air blowdown after street running prevents buildup.

Q: How do I prevent rust on my RC car?
A: Clean your car after every use, especially after wet conditions. Lubricate all metal parts regularly. Store your car in a dry location. Apply WD-40 to bare metal surfaces for long-term storage.

Q: What do I do if I got water in my electronics?
A: Remove batteries immediately. Spray WD-40 or contact cleaner into the affected component to displace water. Let dry completely for 24-48 hours before testing. If components don’t work after drying, they may need replacement.

Final Thoughts

Regular cleaning protects your investment and keeps your RC car performing at its best. Whether you drive off-road trucks through mud or race on-road cars on asphalt, every vehicle needs maintenance.

The good news? Cleaning becomes faster and easier with practice. After a few sessions, you’ll develop an efficient routine that takes just 15-20 minutes.

Key Takeaways:

• Clean after every driving session while dirt is fresh
• Remove all batteries before cleaning (no exceptions)
• Use compressed air as your primary cleaning tool
• Reserve degreasers for heavily soiled vehicles
• Always lubricate after cleaning
• Inspect components while cleaning for early problem detection

Build a dedicated cleaning kit in a plastic tote. When you get home from bashing, put batteries on the charger and spend a few minutes on maintenance. Your future self will thank you when your car starts up perfectly every time.

I promise you’ll sleep better knowing your RC cars aren’t sitting in the garage collecting rust and wearing out bearings. Plus, a clean car simply runs better and lasts longer.

Now get out there and enjoy your hobby. Just remember to clean up when you’re done!